The Signature High-Rise Cream PuffThe Signature High-Rise Cream Puff

Heat the milk

In a saucepan, combine the milk, vanilla and ¼ cup of the sugar. Bring to a gentle simmer over medium heat, then take it off the heat.

Whisk the yolks

In a bowl, vigorously whisk the egg yolks, the remaining ¼ cup of sugar and the cornstarch until pale yellow and thick.

Temper

Slowly ladle ½ cup of the hot milk into the egg mixture, whisking constantly so the eggs don’t scramble. Pour the tempered egg mixture back into the saucepan with the rest of the milk.

Thicken

Cook over medium heat, whisking constantly. As soon as it bubbles it will suddenly turn very thick. Keep whisking hard for 1 full minute to cook out the raw starch taste, then take it off the heat.

Cool

Stir in the butter until melted. Strain the cream through a fine-mesh sieve into a clean bowl and press plastic wrap directly onto the surface so no skin forms. Chill completely, at least 2 hours.

Make the choux while the cream chills.

Fold

Once the pastry cream is cold, whip the heavy cream to stiff peaks. Beat the chilled pastry cream until smooth to loosen it, then gently fold in the whipped cream in three batches until it turns light and fluffy. Spoon it into a piping bag.

The pan paste

Heat the oven to 425°F / 218°C and line a large, heavy baking sheet with a silicone baking mat. In a saucepan over medium heat, bring the water, milk, butter, sugar and salt to a rolling boil. The moment it boils, dump in the flour all at once and stir furiously with a wooden spoon until a dough ball forms. Keep stirring and mashing it against the bottom of the hot pan for 2 full minutes.

Look for a thin white film on the bottom of the pan. That means enough moisture has cooked out, which is what makes the puff hollow.

Cool the dough and add the eggs

Move the hot dough to a stand mixer fitted with the paddle, or a large bowl. Beat on medium for 2 minutes to let the steam escape and cool it, so it won’t cook the eggs. Whisk the 4 eggs in a measuring cup. With the mixer on medium-low, add them in 4 additions, letting each blend in completely before the next.

The V test: lift the spatula out of the dough. It should be smooth and glossy and slowly slide down into a clean hanging V. If it breaks off stiffly, it’s too dry, so add a little more egg. If it sheets right off, it’s too wet. Hold back the last splash of egg if the dough is getting runny.

Pipe with space

Spoon the glossy paste into a piping bag fitted with a large round tip. Pipe 2-inch mounds onto the mat, 2 inches apart so hot air can circulate. Wet a finger and press down any pointed tips so they don’t burn, then lightly brush the tops with the beaten extra egg.

The steam bake

Bake at 425°F / 218°C for exactly 15 minutes. The high heat turns the liquid inside to steam and blasts the puffs up. Then turn the oven down to 350°F / 177°C and bake for another 15 to 20 minutes, until the shells are deeply golden brown and feel light and rigid.

Do not open the oven door in the first 15 minutes. The cold draft collapses the steam and the puffs won’t come back.

Release the hidden steam

Take the pan out and immediately poke a small hole in the bottom of each puff with a toothpick or a sharp paring knife. Let them cool completely on a wire rack.

Trapped steam turns back into water as it cools and makes the shells soggy from the inside out.

Assemble

Once the shells are cold, push the piping tip into the steam hole in the bottom of each one and fill until it feels heavy and packed with cream. Dust the tops with powdered sugar and serve.